I observed that there are three main stages of a wave. There is a rolling wave, a cresting wave and a tumbling wave. A rolling wave is like a bump in the water that does no harm to you. A cresting wave is a tall, steep wave with white-water on the top. A tumbling wave is the wave after it has crested. It is a jumble of tumbling water. Tumbling waves can really hurt if you get caught in them.
The second day we were in Hoi An, we wanted to hit the beach. First we had to get some bikes. We got them at the hotel. They weren’t the best bikes in town, but they were included in the price of the hotel, so they would have to do. The biggest downside was that they didn’t have one in my size. I had to sit on the back on the rat trap! For those that don’t know, a rat trap is the metal rack/uncomfortable seat/grocery holder on the back of the bike. I sat on a towel that was put on the rat trap for me to make it a little more comfortable.
We road the bikes to the beach. On the way we passed big rivers, small streams, coconut tress and rice paddies.Also when we got to a bridge that was steep daddy had a hard time pedalling. It was a very pretty ride to the beach.
When we got to An Bang beach I was surprised at how big the waves were. They were probably that big because the beach was exposed to the open ocean.
We met up with some friends that were from Canada. They were on a world trip too, so it was really fun to play with them. They were staying at a little bungalow in a village on An Bang beach. We went to their place and went swimming in the waves!
The waves were huge. They were taller than me. It was hard to stay on solid ground because the waves were hitting you so hard. Also, the water from past waves were trying to pull you out into the ocean.
That is when Daddy and I decided to do something crazy. We went farther out into the water where I could not stand! It was easier once you get past the cresting waves. There was just rolling waves out here which seemed mostly calm. Then a huge wave came and started cresting in front of us. It wiped daddy and I out. I tumbled and tumbled and tumbled around and around. I couldn’t breath for twenty seconds!
The next day we swam at a different beach closer to our hotel. It had smaller waves. Daddy also said they were cleaner waves. I learnt how to body surf. It is so much fun. Some waves make you feel like you are flying. You have to be careful though. If you get it wrong, you get tumbled around.
Later in the week we found boogie boards that you could rent. I really wanted to try it so mummy and daddy let me rent it. It was fifty thousand dong for an hour (that is about $2.50).
In the beginning Daddy helped me find a good wave. He would pick a good cresting waves and give me a push. I had to kick hard. You literally ride on top of the wave. Once I caught a wave, I could ride it for a long time. I even rode waves all the wave to the sand. If you get it wrong you can capsize and bonk yourself in the nose or stab yourself in the stomach.
It was also hard getting out to where you can catch the waves. To get past the tumbler waves you have to point the tip of your boogie board up and push over the wave. Don’t point it too far up because you will capsize and bonk yourself in the nose.
It was easier to find a wave boogie boarding, than body surfing. With a boogie board you can ride any wave except a rolling wave. Daddy soon left Emma and I and we surfed by ourselves. We played in the waves for hours.
It was so fun!